Wood-Fired Pizza,
90 Seconds in the Oven

San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh fior di latte mozzarella, whole basil leaves, olive oil, and a pinch of sea salt. The benchmark pizza -- simple enough that there is nowhere to hide. Anthony makes the dough the night before and cold-ferments it for 24 hours. Vegetarian

Spicy Calabrian salami, San Marzano sauce, fior di latte, and a drizzle of honey to balance the heat. One of the three pizzas that has been on the menu since the day they opened. Has a loyal enough following that removing it would cause a genuine uproar.

No tomato sauce -- just a thin layer of garlic cream, roasted cremini and shiitake mushrooms, fontina, fresh thyme, and truffle oil. Finished with shaved Parmigiano after it comes out of the oven. One of those pizzas that makes meat-eaters consider going vegetarian.

Bianca base with fior di latte, then topped after baking with prosciutto di Parma, a handful of wild arugula, cherry tomatoes, and a squeeze of lemon. The heat from the fresh-out-of-the-oven crust wilts the arugula just enough. You want to eat this one fast, before it cools.

Fior di latte, Gorgonzola, smoked scamorza, and aged Parmigiano on a white base. Four cheeses, no sauce, just the flavors of the oven doing the work. Rich and deeply savory. Best paired with something acidic from the wine list to cut through it.

House-made pork sausage and braised broccoli rabe on a tomato base with fior di latte. A Neapolitan combination that sounds simple and tastes like it took all day. The sausage is made in-house, seasoned with fennel seed and chili. The broccoli rabe is slightly bitter by design.

Fresh buffalo mozzarella imported from Campania, slow-roasted cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, and good olive oil. The buffalo mozzarella has a different texture and flavor than fior di latte -- milkier, slightly tangy. If you have never had it, this pizza is the right introduction. Staff Pick

The off-menu pizza -- changes based on seasonal ingredients and what Anthony felt like making that morning. Could be roasted beet and goat cheese, smoked salmon and capers, or something from the farm delivery that week. Worth asking about every time.